Kent-Berlin Ostia Excavations

Dana Kubilus 27 Aug 2009

Digging Camp!  My impressions of our first week in Italy:

Something has to be said about people who are eager to pack up and do manual labour during the scorching heat of Italian august summers.  One could say we are all perhaps a bit mad, very dedicated to archaeology, or both.  This year the team is largely composed of students from the University of Kent and the University of California Los Angeles, in collaboration with Humboldt University of Berlin.  I, however, am the only one coming from Seattle, having signed up with UCLA especially for this field school.  We all arrived during the great holiday of Ferragosto at our campsite, a large campground/ country club that is host to worldwide travellers and also to native Italians on summer holiday.  Those who had arrived the night before me were lucky enough to get to watch a religious procession in observance of the holiday.  Unfortunately for us, nearly every store in Italy closed down for the days around Ferragosto, and so we were unable to buy many supplies that were needed to set up base camp.  As a result, the next morning’s breakfast consisted of a couple of biscuit/ cracker things and tea.  Being a voracious American coffee drinker, this was somewhat devastating for me.  It was not until several mornings later that I was finally able to get a good cup of joe.

 Due to its close location to the sea and Roma, Castel Fusano is alive with people from all over the world.  Next to our spot is a large group of very rowdy and happy German young adults.  A bonus to this is that we have no need of a DJ to keep us entertained: they are frequently blasting a bizarre mix of music throughout the day.  Our most memorable interaction with this group thus far occurred when many of the girls in our group were startled by a flash co-ed shower rave (yes, exactly like what it sounds like) as they attempted to brush their teeth at about 7am our first morning.

Needless to say, the first several days in Italy have been very interesting and we have had a lot of fun making fun of each other’s silly accents.  Aside from getting to know each other, we have also been spending our days setting up the camp so that it will be a well oiled machine by the time we start digging.  Everyone has found their respective niches, be it helping prepare the meals, washing the dishes, or tidying up.  Castel Fusano is a wonderful campsite with so many amenities that it almost does not feel like we are camping at all.  We have tons of sinks, hot running water, two gorgeous swimming pools, bars, internet, stores, restaurants, and cuddly cats.  For me it is the cats that really make this place homey.  One of my favourite things to do when I have down time is to hunt for baby kittens to cuddle!  The only totally negative thing to occur since my arrival in Italy involved a bad pizza place.  I had never seen a person eat with such depth of disgust, disappointment, and loathing as I did when I watched Luke eat that cold and rather cardboard-ish slice of so-called pizza.

Along with dealing with everything above, we have also managed to squeeze in a massive amount of exploration of Rome and accompanying lectures.  These fieldtrips, including Republican temples that are now cat sanctuaries, the Imperial palaces on the Palatine, the extravagant Baths of Caracalla, and many Late Antique churches and catacombs have given us the context for our site in Ostia Antica.  After learning about all of these amazing places, our appetites are thoroughly whetted to get our trowels dirty and begin our excavation! 

To conclude for the moment, aside from minor setbacks, 40 Celsius weather, massive amounts of bug bites, and quite possibly a dead animal under our bungalow (which Castel Fusano staff are currently trying to remove), our campsite is lovely and I am optimistic that everything is going to be rainbows, sunshine, and unicorns for the duration of our work!  Cheers!

Dana Kubilus     25 Aug 2009

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Our New Campsite.

 

 

If you thought the old camp site sounded good, you should see this one! Facilities include bars, restaurants, a supermarket, laundrette, two swimming pools, sauna, a free bus to the metro station, a shuttle bus directly to the airport for just three Euros, a small night club, tennis courts, football pitches and much more. Of course, the team still works hard on site, but when they return from the daily work, they feel more like they are on holiday than on an archaeological excavation. The only drawback is that the new camp site is slightly further away from the dig than our original location and thus no longer in walking distance. However, the free bus to the metro station, and very cheap, efficient Italian transport, do not make it a chore at all.

 

More information and pictures concerning our new camp site can be obtained from http://www.countryclubcastelfusano.it/

 

Richard Sadler 13/09/2008

 

The Dig Site

 

Despite the majority of the team being British and therefore used to cold, wet Septembers, our time spent on site is surprisingly bearable considering the Mediterranean climate. Even though temperatures have been soaring to over 30 degrees, unless one is working in the direct sunlight, most of the time it is not noticeable thanks to almost constant shade provided by the huge pine tree in the centre, numerous Cyprus trees and some of the remaining structures surrounding the forum. Furthermore, there is a very cool breeze that often blows in from the sea which is most welcome and refreshing. We have also been informed by the Sopraintendenza that the temperature is going to drop a further 5 degrees during the day as mid-September approaches, thus making it a lot more comfortable for those digging.

 

 

As well as half-hour breaks in the morning and afternoon, during the hottest hours of the day, we are given an ample break of two hours for lunch. We all sit in the shade and share lunch bought fresh on the day which usually consists of freshly baked rolls, locally cured meats, cheeses, olives and tomatoes and then for afters there is lots of fresh fruit such as peaches, watermelon slices and bananas. After the food has been consumed, there are plenty of things to do with the remaining time. Those who want to get off-site for a few hours choose to go to the heavily air conditioned on-site cafeteria, where those working on the excavation enjoy 50% discount, and refresh themselves with ice cold drinks and even colder Italian ice cream. Some braver members of the team choose to use their time in a more scholarly fashion by looking round areas of Ostia which interest them or visiting the on-site museum, whilst others choose to relax on site by having a nap in order to replenish their energy. The wheelbarrows have proved unusually comfortable for those remaining behind!

 

 

Richard Sadler 13/09/2008

The Camp Site

 

 

Upon arrival, the campsite did not look too welcoming. Much cleaning and renovation work had to be undertaken. Paths were swept, foliage trimmed and tables scrubbed in order to make the camp site as hospitable as possible. Furthermore, due to DHL, much of our equipment arrived over a week late. This included airbeds and several tents, some of which we had to re-buy. However, the resourcefulness of the team knows no bounds, and Andy, Michael and Richard constructed a mosquito-roof temporary bedroom on the terrace of the garden cabin, whilst waiting for the tents. Now they have finally arrived, and due to the combined efforts of the team, spirits are high, as the camp site continues to improve daily.

The site has been transformed into a comfortable and homely area set amongst an orchard containing many fruit trees: pomegranates and oranges, as well as vines. The location of the camp site itself is also very convenient, being within walking distance of almost anything anyone would need, such as the train station, the dig site, and the Medieval Borgo. The Borgo is the local village, which offers a wide range of shops, selling delicious local produce, especially cheap fresh fruit and vegetables. As well as all of this, there are plenty shops selling Italian ice cream – the team favourite. Furthermore, Rome is just 40 minutes and 1 euro away and the beach is just two metro stops from camp.

 

However, the campsite is not without its surprises; a huge cactus is situated in the grounds. On the first night, Kelly Madigan accidentally put her tent up in the dark in very close proximity to it. Needless to say, she soon relocated. There is also an impressive pool in the centre of the garden, not recommended for a dip, but a haven for many forms of interesting wildlife, including frogs. Furthermore, there are several affectionate cats who provide much entertainment for the team.

 

Dinner time at the campsite is always a happy occasion, with meals so far being produced in the cabin by Veronica or Luke, with the assistance of sous-chef Andy. All the ingredients are bought fresh on the day and prepared in the evening for the whole team, who are always ravenous after a hard days work in the sun. Indeed, with such fresh, healthy food some of the team have remarked that it feels like being on detox! Axel also very kindly provides us with a frequent supply of local wine that comes in 5 litre containers and is very palatable. Beer is also very easily obtainable, with a 66cl bottle of Peroni costing just 2 Euros. When dinner is ready, we all enjoy it on a large wooden table in the centre of the garden under a generous canopy of foliage.

Richard Sadler 08/09/2008